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WiiLi.org a new revolution
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Oinquer
Joined: 14 Nov 2007 Posts: 44
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:46 am Post subject: nice |
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Ok...i asked cause the videos i watched only showed the acelerometers or something like it....
ill check at lunch when i go home...
anyway reading the post it seems you guys are getting this very well documented...
i read about the USB only giving out 5V...and 100 mA
...what about using 2 USB exits instead of one?...
get them in pararell...you get same Voltage double Current...or simply divide the system in 2 part's...you can get a maximum of 400 mA i think of USB 2.0...
well i look forward to buy my own Wiimote and buy my sensor bar... |
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TiagoTiago
Joined: 20 Jan 2007 Posts: 709 Location: Brasil
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Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 11:53 am Post subject: |
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depending on what design you choose for your sensorbar, 5 volts shoudl be more than enough, it is just a matter of having the rigt parts and the right circuit layout _________________ please put the scripts on the wiki so they dont get lost as new stuff is posted!
phpBB doesnt like me,somtimes it will forget to warn me about new replies to threads I asked it to,if you see a thread I should have responded, could please email me? |
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Oinquer
Joined: 14 Nov 2007 Posts: 44
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Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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not wanting to ress a half dead topic...but i found out some stuff...
while most IR leds have small angles (20 degrees) i have found leds with 100 and more even...
that would be very nice to play around the room....
farnell sells them but the minimum order is 30€ plus transport...kinda heaavy. |
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TiagoTiago
Joined: 20 Jan 2007 Posts: 709 Location: Brasil
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Posted: Tue Jan 08, 2008 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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in mine, I have leds with a relatively small fov, but I placed a piece of white paper (the type used for computer printers) in front of the leds so that the light of the leds projects bright ir circles on the paper, that can be viewed from the outside (I checked with a webcam) from almost 180 degrees, and from a reasonable distance, on another ir thing I made for a different purpose, I wrapped the leds with a small bit of toilet paper and to fixate it there I wrapped transparent adesive tape (over here it is called "Durex" but I know that just about anywhere else in the world that name isn't usually associated with adhesive tape)
I've just not used it much latelly cause the ac adapter I had broke (phisicly, but all the important parts are still connected, so if I manage to stick the two prongs on the plug right it will still do it's job), I've been considering using an old computer power supply to power it) _________________ please put the scripts on the wiki so they dont get lost as new stuff is posted!
phpBB doesnt like me,somtimes it will forget to warn me about new replies to threads I asked it to,if you see a thread I should have responded, could please email me? |
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Oinquer
Joined: 14 Nov 2007 Posts: 44
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Posted: Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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| im prolly ordering some leds with a friend who needs some stuff too so when i got it ill post here what happened =P |
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V!NCENT
Joined: 20 Feb 2008 Posts: 3
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Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:48 pm Post subject: |
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Hi guys/gals,
I registered because of this thread. I don't have a Wii but only a Wiimote for the purpose of having fun with Linux. I am not a native English speaker and therefore I don't understand some English technical terms, if you know what I mean. AC, V, uF and A I do understand.
I am wondering, because I'm not really that electronic savvy, if I could just buy the official Sensor Bar, replace the Wii connector with a 12V PC port connector (is this the 'old printer port'?) and put one or more resistors somewhere to get it working? That way I would only have to buy resistors and everything would work as Nintendo intended it to be (not that I think all you custom hacks don't work the way it should ) |
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TheDro
Joined: 10 Feb 2008 Posts: 39 Location: Canada
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Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2008 2:51 am Post subject: |
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Just finished reading all 20 pages of posts and the most mis-understood concept seems to be the drop from 12V to 7V. This is (probably) due to internal resistance. When you measure the voltage with no load, you will measure 12V since there is no current flowing but if you connect a load and then measure the voltage, you only get a fraction of that voltage because some of it is "dissipated" in the internal resistance. Most of you might not understand the following formula but hopefully some of you do.
It's based on what's called the voltage divider rule. It only works for one voltage supply and two resistors (although the rule can be slightly changed for different scenarios).
Va= Vo*Ra/(Ra+Rb) and Vb= Vo*Rb/(Ra+Rb)
Where Vo is the ideal voltage source, Ra is resistor a, Rb is resistor b and Va and Vb are the voltages across Ra and Rb respectively.
(it seems I can't draw a proper circuit using bars and spaces)
And the Wii has a Vo of 12V and an internal resistance Ra of (???).
I don't have a resistor but if I did I could pretty easily figure out Ra by plugging an Rb into the wii and calculating the internal resistance.
Also, tomorrow I will probably go shopping at circuit city for some leds and based on some quick calculations I should be able to run 6 leds (at 20mA) on a single 1.2V AA (NiMH) battery for about 20 hours.
Edit: do not plug a battery directly to the LEDs, I checked out the values this morning and you will very probably fry the LED. I'll post more info soon. |
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